Thorsberg Tunic: Part 2

THORSBERG TUNICPART 2: Body Construction and the Transverse Seam

Previously we completed the tablet woven starting border which is present on the back panel of the tunic's body. This brings us to an interesting problem: the tunic construction.

The tunic was first published in 1863 by Engelhardt following his time working the excavation in the few years before. While Engelhardt's notes and publications are advanced for the age, the field has come a long way, and the techniques and observations of the 19th century are often sorely incorrect. Since its discovery, this tunic has had an incredible number of scholarly eyes on it, and many publications have been made regarding its details-- often conflicting with one another. Furthermore, the pieces have been permanently mounted on display, resulting in the obstruction of research on the sides not facing outward.

Engelhardt decided to the best of his ability which side of the tunic was the front, and, based upon his writing, the tunic was mounted this way sometime in the 1990s or early 2000s. Most scholars agree he had it backwards, as evidenced by the arm seams facing outward and the straight cut of the neckline, which is rounded on the obstructed side.

However, one detail that is rarely considered is the presence of a "transverse seam" across the chest of the tunic. While evidence is scarce and difficult to come by, there is an unpublished photo referenced in "War & Worship" which was taken by former museum conservator Heidemarie Farke at Schloss Gottorf, Schleswig, which depicts the seam running horizontally across the chest; insofar as I know, it is the only existing photo of this side of the tunic, now permanently mounted as the "rear".

Engelhardt, and several other researchers since, have stated that there are four panels: two for the body, two for the sleeve. This does appear to be the case; however, Möller-Wiering's observation of the tunic makes no mention of any shoulder seam, instead stating that the tunic "continues over the shoulders" until reaching the transverse seam.

Reasons for the seam are unclear, although in the photo, it appears to me that the wear and stains on the fabric is different than the rest; it could be a modification made by Engelhardt upon its discovery and reconstruction, as making repairs to or even cleaning recovered artefacts was not uncommon in his day. In fact, in his notes, Engelhardt even mentions a large patch of fabric which he states belongs to the tunic, that has since not been located-- although the dimensions are far different.

If it was not a 19th century repair, it is also possible that it was a repair during the life of the tunic, or perhaps just a necessity of construction due to fabric length. We will likely never know for certain.

While there is much mystery surrounding this little-known detail of the tunic, it may help explain why Engelhardt believed-- or perhaps even just decided-- this side was the rear.

With no information on the seam's construction, I chose to connect these panels using the "Thorsberg" seam. The two panels were secured together using a 2-ply wool thread, which appears to be close in diameter to the thread of the original. It is dyed a bluish-violet, the color based on threads found elsewhere in the tunic which, through dye analysis, were discovered to have been madder-dyed overdyed in woad.

The Thorsberg seam, thread materials, and dye analysis research will be discussed further in a future post.